Mouth-watering kebabs, scented biryani, and whipped, cloud-like desserts.
The northern Indian city of Lucknow has forever been a dream destination for epicures, with inhabitants and tourists alike swearing by its exquisite cuisine.
A Global Honor
Recently, UNESCO designated it as a Creative City of Gastronomy – placing it on a select roster of global cities and sparking hopes that it will showcase Lucknow's exceptional food. With this title, it becomes part of a global network of more than four hundred cities across more than 100 countries committed to promoting "creativity as a key factor of sustainable urban development".
The honor "demonstrates its deep-rooted gastronomic legacy and vibrant food ecosystem," according to a official from UNESCO's Regional Office for South Asia.
Lucknow is just the second Indian city – after Hyderabad, which was chosen in 2019 – to find a place in this highly sought-after list of seventy urban centers around the world.
A Metropolis Shaped by Cuisine
The accolade for this venerable city comes as little surprise to its inhabitants or dedicated food lovers. Many share the sentiment that it is "better late than never".
With the UNESCO recognition, this cherished, lively, and diverse city – the capital of India's biggest state – is finally in the limelight for what has perennially shaped its essence: an unparalleled passion for food.
"'The day's menu, the method of preparation' is a continued conversation from waking up until going to bed in most homes," explains a local cultural expert. "And you are actually assessed by the excellence of food that is produced in your kitchen."
An Imperial Food Tradition
The Nawabi City – as it's often referred to after its historic affluent Muslim rulers – is renowned for its succulent kebabs and a unique take on biryani that were created, refined, and taken to sublime levels in their royal kitchens.
These imperial kitchens were epicenters of food experimentation, merging Iranian and local Indian styles to create what became known as the culinary tradition of Awadh.
It was in that period that Lucknow's most famous kebabs were created. As the tale is told that the mutton galouti was devised to cater to an elderly nawab who had no longer had his teeth. His chefs processed the meat with papaya, saffron, and a blend of spices and made it so silky that it required no chewing.
But arguably the most significant contribution of the chefs of Awadh was the slow-cooking Dum pukht technique, where food is cooked on a gentle, slow heat, with the pot's lid securely sealed with a flour paste.
More Than Just Famous Dishes
Besides the obvious kebabs and biryani, the cooks also developed a collection of dishes that included kormas (creamy curries), sheermal (saffron-infused flatbread), and shahi tukda (a rich bread pudding).
However, Lucknow is not only about kebabs and biryani – the region is also a vegetarian's paradise.
The local traditionally vegetarian community's cuisine doesn't just showcases local ingredients but also offers the city its exquisitely crafted Indian desserts, sweets, and unique street food, like chaat – zesty fried snacks.
Time-Tested Food Joints
Almost on many street corners, there are tiny kiosks and stalls – lesser-known treasures that are immensely favored by the locals.
In the heart of the city of Hazratganj, large gatherings start milling around from early morning at a legendary tea stall to get a piping hot cup of milky masala chai, presented in kulhads, along with pillowy soft buns lathered with freshly churned white butter.
To start the day, one can head to a no-frills joint situated in the old city area of Aminabad. Almost 150 years after it was set up, the place is still much sought-after for its hot kachoris (fried bread stuffed with lentils) and jalebis (crispy, syrup-soaked sweets).
Ensuring Legacy Continues
The city also boasts remarkable treats of the season, such as makkhan malai, a cloud-like dessert savored in the winter. The technique of making it is intricate and involved. The vendor beats the milk and then exposes it at night, allowing the dew to give it its amazing airy feel.
On cold mornings, street vendors are often seen in historic neighborhoods like Aminabad and Chowk. Many though express concern that their children are reluctant to take up the art.
A renowned chef from Lucknow has often said that the city's profound food legacy positions it at the very pinnacle of the Indian street food experience. The real value from the UNESCO recognition, however, will occur only if Lucknow can now create awareness about its hidden eateries.
Every dish in Lucknow comes with a history – shaped by generational food businesses, from modest street carts to lively restaurants, and closely held family recipes.
The international acclaim, it is believed, will inspire more people worldwide to explore these tales and travel to the city to delight in the culinary delights of Lucknow.
